On the Road–Part 7

tanjabrittonwriter 57 Comments

Following a night in a motel at Port Aransas and part of a morning back at Leonabelle Turnbull Birding Center to catch another glimpse of the still-present American Flamingo, we left Mustang Island behind. I won’t talk about our detour to Corpus Christi where we failed to see the way-out-of-the-way dumpster-diver Cattle Tyrant from South America whom other birders had encountered just the day before at exactly the same time we were at the blue dumpster next to an oyster bar (you can read about a successful sighting by Brian, our travel advisor, here).

We opted to skip Padre Island National Seashore and make our way to South Padre Island instead, as it is known as a great birding destination. Cameron County, where South Padre Island is located, boasts one of the highest number of county bird species in the entire US—498 as of today. We ended up spending four nights in a motel there, as the local campgrounds catered mostly to RVs and we didn’t want to contend with the constantly blowing wind. We crossed the Queen Isabella Causeway that connects Port Isabel with South Padre Island, a barrier island that’s sandwiched between the Laguna Madre and the Gulf of Mexico. As we were driving into town, the setting sun and clouds collaborated with palm trees to create a stereotypical island sunset. This was not the only stereotype we encountered.

South Padre Island, maybe more than any of our other destinations, gave the impression of harboring two parallel universes. On the one hand, there were the many high-rise hotels, restaurants, bars, and other businesses that tailored to tourists who come here to ride around in golf-carts, wear flip-flops and beach shirts, fish or swim or surf, or attend one of the events at the Convention Center (a barbecue competition was going on while we there). Thank goodness we weren’t visiting during Spring Break! Besides colorful sunsets, the Island offered colorful buildings and colorful clothes, tropical plants, and sand sculptures, most of which were damaged due to recent heavy rains.

To enlarge a photo, click on it. To read its caption, hover cursor over it.

Our first sunset on South Padre Island
Mural at the South Padre Island Convention Center
Mural at the South Padre Island Convention Center
One of many sand sculptures
South Padre Island Beach at Isla Blanca
Sanderlings at the beach
Brown Pelican at the beach
People fishing on the pier at Isla Blanca
El Christo de los Pescadores (Jesus Christ of the Fishermen) Sculpture at Isla Blanca Park. It commemorates the lives of fishermen lost at sea.

On the other hand were the birders who had come from across the country and continent (we met a few Canadians who had opted not to boycott the US) to focus on the Island’s rich avifauna and who walked around not in flip-flops and beach wear but were bedecked with sun hats, binoculars, and cameras. It was remarkable how many birds there were, despite most of the island being “developed” and covered with buildings. The few empty green lots all had for-sale signs and are slated for “development.” Some local birders asked us to sign a petition to preserve habitat adjacent to the Convention Center whose tree cover attracts migratory birds after their Gulf crossing. Tellingly, their main argument had to focus on the economic impact of birding and birders for the island, rather than the simple reason that these birds have been finding refuge here for eons.

The main road that covers South Padre Island in a north-south-direction is only about 6 miles long. We were positively surprised to discover the availability of free public transportation, offered 365 days a year between 7 AM and 9 PM, and we left our car in the motel parking lot until we were ready to depart again. The buses weren’t always on time and a few didn’t show up at all, but that’s a small price to pay for the ability to get on and off the buses anywhere, even away from official bus stops.

The Island harbors three to four major birding destinations, but there were birds everywhere, even on busy-with-people beaches. Some species, such as gulls and pelicans and sanderlings are quite tolerant of human commotion and weave in and out between foot traffic. The north end of the island is home to the Convention Center which affords access to the Laguna Madre Trail, a boardwalk, as well as the Tidal Flats, which are exposed or covered with water, depending on the tides. Nearby is the South Padre Island Birding and Nature Center. As opposed to the former, which is free, there is a $10 entrance fee for the latter, but it’s well worth it. Apart from boardwalks, the center offers a museum and raises several animals, alligators among them. I was fortunate to be able to join a tour led by a local naturalist guide. Javier was extremely knowledgeable about local flora and fauna and we tour participants learned a lot from him.

What makes both these destinations special is the fact that their boardwalks crisscross a portion of the Laguna Madre. The following is transcribed from a sign next to one of the boardwalks:

The Laguna Madre, also known as the “Mother Lagoon” is one of six hypersaline lagoons in the world—hypersaline meaning saltier than seawater. Combined with the Laguna Madre de Tamaulipas in Mexico directly south, it is the largest hypersaline lagoon in the world. It is so salty because virtually no river or creek empties into the lagoon, with few outlets to the Gulf of Mexico. Despite its length and proximity to the sea, it’s practically a closed body of water. The Mother Lagoon is also young geologically speaking, created when Padre Island first took its shape as a submerged sandbar 4,500 years ago. This region is a rich and biologically diverse ecosystem.

Its network of coastal wetlands, native grasslands, marshes, shallow bays, wind tidal flats and barrier islands provide a critical habitat for an array of migratory and wintering shorebirds.

Federally endangered Kemp’s Ridley sea turtles also call this area home.

The shallow waters of the Laguna Madre for almost 80% of all of Texas’ seagrass beds.

Javier informed me about another local birding hotspot, located along W. Sheepshead Street, one of the many east-west streets of the island. In 1999, the Valley Land Fund purchased six residential lots and set them aside, planting them with native trees and shrubs and providing various foods for migratory birds, including oranges. I visited there three different times and was able to see numerous newly arrived warblers, buntings, tanagers, and orioles, among other species. It was poignant and touching to see the large impact of a relatively small acreage and makes one wish that more land would be allowed to remain wild.

Boardwalk at the Convention Center
Juvenile Roseate Spoonbill on the railing of the boardwalk
Green Heron under the boardwalk at the Convention Center
Lesser Nighthawk resting on a tree branch very near the Convention Center
Laguna Madre
The Flats next to the Convention Center, with private houses in the background
South Padre Island Birding and Nature Center
View across the wetlands and the Laguna Madre from the tower of the Birding Island Birding and Nature
Bird sanctuary along W. Sheepshead Street
Huisache tree with avian visitor, a male Indigo Bunting
Orange-crowned Warbler partaking of fresh orange at the sanctuary

The birds of South Padre Island were wonderful and I enjoyed feeling the sand and waves of the Gulf of Mexico between my toes, but even if I ever visit Texas again, I don’t think I will seek out another Island experience.

Thank you so much for reading. I did not intend to write so many lengthy posts about our road trip, but seem unable to restrain myself.

This is part 7 of a series of posts about our road trip to Texas.

For part 1, click here, for part 2, click here, for part 3, click here, for part 4, click here, for part 5, click here, for part 6, click here.

57 thoughts on “On the Road–Part 7”

  1. I love how you shared both sides of South Padre Island – the busy tourist areas and the peaceful birding spots. Your detailed observations about the habitat preservation efforts and the island’s unique ecosystem are inspiring. Looking forward to the next chapter of your journey!

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  3. “It was poignant and touching to see the large impact of a relatively small acreage and makes one wish that more land would be allowed to remain wild.” Amen to that.

    South Texas produces a lot of grapefruits, so if the Orange-crowned Warbler partakes of fresh oranges at the sanctuary, does the Grapefruit-crowned Warbler partake of fresh grapefruits there, too?

    I think I speak for everyone in saying we’re pleased that you’re coming up with this many lengthy posts about your Texas trip, so there’s no need to restrain yourself.

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    • Thank you, Steve, I appreciate the encouragement.

      I must admit to experiencing a sense of dread when I noticed how much natural environment was slated for “development” in most places we visited. It does not bode well for the birds (or the native plants), and it makes me very sad.

      I love that you noticed the link between the Orange-crowned Warbler and the fruit it’s feeding on. Your notion of a Grapefruit-crowned Warbler made me smile. Keep your eyes open, you are more likely to find it than I.

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  4. I can’t help feeling a pang about the loss of so much prime habitat to development. All over the world humans are pushing animals and plants to the brink, seemingly without a thought to the inevitable boomerang effect.
    I’m glad for the few preserves there are and that there are folks trying to slow the development in favor of wildlife.
    Thanks for sharing your trip with us!

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    • Thank you for your comment, Eliza. I felt similar melancholy pangs all the time. It’s very difficult to maintain a sense of hope when every day brings the news of another plant or animal gone from our world.

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  7. South Padre Island haben wir nur in heftigem Regen erlebt, wir sind trotzdem im Nature Center gewesen, als einzige Besucher und bekamen auf unserem Rundgang sogar eine kostenlose Führung. Man war erstaunt, zwei Deutsche im texanischen Winter auf Padre Island als Besucher zu haben 😉 Ich werde all das nie vergessen und Deine wunderbaren Berichte und die Fotos erfreuen mich so sehr. Die Vogelbilder, die ich dort gemacht habe, zeigen nur missmutig dreinschauende Vögel, aber sie sind gerade deswegen für mich einzigartig und irgendwie haben sie einen lustigen Touch 😉
    Liebe Grüße
    MAren

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    • Hut ab, liebe Maren. Ich weiß nicht, ob wir uns die Insel im strömenden Regen angetan hätten! Wie nett, daß Ihr eine kostenlose Führung im Nature Center bekamt. Ihr habt den Mitarbeitern dort sicherlich sehr imponiert.

      Ich kann mir gut vorstellen, daß die Vögel mißmutig aussahen. Wasser von unten, oben und drumherum macht irgendwie wenig Spaß.

      Herzliche Grüße zurück,

      Tanja

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      • Urlaub im Winter in Texas zu machen, das bedeutete dann auch REgentage, Wir mußten damals im Süden bleiben, denn nördlich der Küste in Frederiksburg, Austin, Dallas, überall gab es heftigen Eisregen. In New Orleans erwischte uns Tornado Warnung – unvergessen. Im Frühling war Texas definitiv schöner zu bereisen, aber ohne Grus Grus.
        Lieben Gruß MAren

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      • Jemals in Texas einen europäischen Grus grus (Common Crane/Kranich) zu sehen, wäre eine Sensation. 😊
        Aber Grus americana (Whooping Crane/Schreikranich) und Antigone canadensis (Sandhill Crane/Kanadakranich) sind natürlich auch sensationell.

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  8. Ich freue mich jedesmal ueber Deine ausfuehrlichen Berichte, liebe Tanja!

    In Port Isabel haben Mary und ich unseren 6. Hochzeitstag gefeiert. Das Birding Center hat uns auch begeistert. Was wir auch extrem lehrreich fanden war ein Besuch bei “Sea Turtle Inc.”. Auch wenn sich diese Internetadresse kommerziell anhoert: die Leute dort kuemmern sich um dei Erhaltung von Seeschildkroeten. Sie versorgen u.A. verletzte Tiere.

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    • Herzlichen Dank für den netten Kommentar, lieber Pit. Meine Berichte sind wahrscheinlich interessanter, wenn man selbst schon mal an diesen Orten war, so wie Ihr.

      Mit einem Besuch bei Sea Turtle Inc. hat es leider nicht geklappt, aber ich habe mit anderen Besuchern gesprochen, die auch von der Mission der Organisation beeindruckt waren. Hoffen wir mal, daß die Tiere weiterhin überleben können.

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  9. The Cattle Tyrant! That character has been in CC since November ’23. I remember because I was in Costa Rica and on my birder FB page, they were going nuts over his appearance. I’m glad he’s been able to make a home and survive, but also sad that he’s clearly cut off from his own kind.

    I so appreciate that you spent time in that area and that you saw so much activity. It is a remarkable area for birds, though I certainly didn’t appreciate that much growing up in CC.

    It’s been years since I’ve been to far South Padre, and yes, lots of development there. Wildlife hangs on though, for now.

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    • I first heard about the Cattle Tyrant on Brian’s blog a while back, long before I had any idea that I might ever be in the area to look for it myself. The same birding group that told me about the flamingo also mentioned the tyrant, and since we were relatively close, we decided to give it a try. We spent around 3 hours at or near the dumpster, but then gave up.

      I agree–it’s remarkable that the bird has lasted there this long. I wish it well! You are right about wildlife hanging on. But I didn’t come away feeling optimistic about the future. Too much habitat loss, and too much “development.”

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  11. What stunning photos, history, and vacation, Tanja. You and I (and many others I can see) feel the same way about the lack of wild land. I’m so grateful for those that are preserving our areas. I can watch birds all day, my friend. Thank you for taking us along with you! 💛

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    • Thank you for partaking of our travels, dear Karla. It was a very memorable trip, but not one that left me feeling particularly optimistic.

      It’s true that many people care about birds and other creatures and work on their behalf, but it seems to me that humankind’s priorities about our own concerns are only increasing, at the cost of everything and everybody else.

      Wishing you well,

      Tanja

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      • Tanja, I see it …I understand you. It’s hard enough to feel that way “at home” and there are very FEW Places in our country that feel sacred anymore.
        Sadly, some of the beautiful lake area in which I lived before is plastered with the priorities you mentioned. It’s sickening, actually. It’s hard to observe.

        I wish you well, my friend! Thank you for your wishes and regards, too. I’m hanging in there. This weekend I was tangled in family celebrations–an encouragement indeed! 💗

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      • I think anyone with eyes to see and a heart to feel is depressed about what is going on all around us.
        I’m glad you are finding the love and support you need among your family and friends.
        All the best to you,
        Tanja

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  16. What a journey, Tanja! I felt like I was walking those boardwalks and scanning the skies right alongside you. The contrast between the birders and beachgoers was so vivid—and honestly relatable. It’s inspiring (and a bit bittersweet) to see how a small patch of preserved land can become a refuge for so many birds. Thank you for bringing attention to the importance of conserving even tiny wild spaces. This series is such a joy to follow!🐦🌿🌊

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    • Thank you for your visit and kind comment, Diya.
      Seeing how small spaces with appropriate habitat attract disproportionately large numbers and wide varieties of species makes me both hopeful and sad. Hopeful, because Nature is so resilient; sad because we are destroying so much of the environment that plants and animals have to crowd together in a few surviving natural spaces. We need to do better!

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      • Absolutely, Tanja! 💚 Your reflection truly resonates. Nature’s resilience is awe-inspiring, yet it’s sobering to realize how our actions are forcing that resilience to its limits. Thank you for using your platform to both celebrate and advocate for the wild spaces we still have. Your words spark both appreciation and responsibility—may we all rise to do better, together. 🌿🕊️

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  18. I smiled at the distinction you drew between touristy Padre and birding Padre. In the same way, your view of the place is distinctly different from mine. I arrived a little farther south, at Port Isabel, a couple of times; one trip we came the whole way from Galveston in the ICW — the intracoastal waterway that cuts through the Laguna Madre. When I think of the area, I think of picking up lightning whelk shells (Texas’s state shell) at the Boca Chica beach, the Port Isabel lighthouse, and being detailed by federal agents after an offshore return to Galveston. Gunrunners had started using offhore recreational vessels to move their goods, and the good agents were just checking; we’d been on a zig-zag course heading into the wind, and that caught their attention.

    South Padre’s a little too touristy for me, but I do have Brownsville’s Sabal Palm plantation on my wish list, because of the plant life there. I’ve heard that it’s also a great birding spot. I’m wondering if you made it there — and if you managed to see a Chachalaca in your travels!

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    • Isn’t it fascinating how each of us can experience the same places completely differently?

      It would have been amazing to sail through the Laguna Madre, but that’s not something we had easy access to. I would love to be able pick up whelk shells but could have done without being detailed by federal agents.

      Yes to the Chachalacas (they are droll, but we watched a fight between two of them that had us worried for their health!), no to Brownsville.

      We did make it into the Rio Grande Valley, but decided to skip Brownsville for lack of time. The Sabal Palm plantation sounds intriguing and I hope you will make it there.

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  20. SPI. our winter home! So glad you got to see the birding hotspots on the island. The birding center is a bit pricey, but we always toss our money to them to get a chance to walk their boardwalks. The LMT next door at the Convention center is nice, but just doesn’t give the same access to the birds I want there (as in the Mangrove Yellow Warbler!!). The flats is our favorite spot for sure (your correct, watch the tide schedule). I tend to catch it later in the day so we can hang out there and enjoy the incredible sunsets. Your signature must have worked, the SPI council has stopped or at least delayed the expansion of the Convention Center. Sheepshead is remarkable. A tiny little urban area that is an absolutely magnate for good warblers and their allies – I wish the one side of the street was a little less dense as I have to grab for any light I can find to photograph over there. Be sure and save time to hit the jetty in Isla Blanca the next time you are around there – good chance to see the deep see birds if they happen to fly in closer to land. Thanks for the wonderful series of posts – makes us smile every time we recognize one of your stops!

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    • Thank you for your comment, Brian.
      I didn’t mind paying the $10 fee to visit the Birding and Nature Center, especially since the price included the tour with Javier. He was amazing.
      And I’m glad to hear that the City Council is at least considering to halt their plans. There were an amazing number of birds in the trees next to the Convention Center.
      We actually visited Isla Blanca and the jetty, but it was covered with people fishing and the rocks were wet from the surf, so we didn’t get to walk on it.
      I’m sure you would have a lot to add to each of my posts since you know these places so much better than I.

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  21. Excellent trip report! So sad about the intrusion of development and habitat loss 😢 When I grew up in South Florida, we had mile after mile of cypress domes, wetlands, ponds, etc that harbored an amazing number of species…now, sadly, all replaced with strip malls and townhouses.

    Really interesting about the hypersaline lagoons… I read the plaque and the Mother Lagoon has 80% of TX seagrass…wow! Also an amazing # of fish. SPI is on my bucket list, thanks for the sneak preview! 😎🙏

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    • Sorry to hear that your former Florida home has undergone such destructive changes. We continue to act as if we were alone on this earth and if there were no tomorrow. It’s very sad.
      The Laguna Madre was fascinating. Of course, when one small area harbors the vast majority of one species, there is a great risk of loss.
      I hope you will be able to make it to SPI one day.

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  22. You have covered many miles and as many wonderful areas during your incredible trip!
    I smiled as I imagined the difference in appearance from ‘tourists’ and ‘birders.’ I wonder what goes through the minds of the birds when they view us… The colors of the male Indigo bunting are especially lovely☺️

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