On the Road–Part 9

tanjabrittonwriter 61 Comments

We took our leave from Falcon State Park but before turning north onto US Highway 83, we backtracked a short distance south to the small town of Salieño with an eponymous wildlife preserve at the end of a dirt road. In the winter, a portion of the preserve called DeWind’s Yard, a birding hotspot, is staffed with Land Valley Fund volunteers and resident caretakers, but everybody had left and the gate was locked during our visit on April 11.

We knew this before we arrived but still wanted to come because the Yard is directly adjacent to the River Grande River. As the featured photo above suggests, we were standing directly at the river bank, for the first time during our trip. Apart from Bentsen-Rio Grande State Park, this was also the closest we came to Mexico, sitting straight across the river. We could have swum there had we so desired, without being seen by anybody but the turtles sunning themselves on river rocks and an osprey perched for a moment’s rest.

We watched the languid flow of the water toward its meeting with the Gulf, watched the birds move freely between one side of the river and the other as they have done forever, neither knowing nor caring about artificial and random borders. After our close encounter with the river, Highway 83 took us northwest to Laredo where we turned north, saying our final goodbyes to the Rio Grande Valley.

We took a short break at the Laredo Welcome Center along I-35

The bulk of the day was spent in the car. I studied the map for potential places to spend the night, making a few phone calls and getting lucky when talking to an agent at Garner State Park who found us an open site on this busy Friday. When we arrived there in the early evening after having traveled nearly 250 miles, we stood in line at the office to check in, then drove another three miles to our campsite. The number of campgrounds and campsites, most of them reserved for the weekend, was amazing—the park isn’t too far from San Antonio and the promise of nice weather had lured many campers.

Garner State Park is located in Texas Hill Country in a stunning setting, with the Frio River flowing along the eastern boundary and rocky cliffs flanking the campground. The soil was soft and the tent went up easily, we cooked a leisurely supper, and enjoyed watching the full April moon rise and lighten the night sky.

To enlarge a photo, click on it. To read its caption, hover cursor over it.

Garner State Park
April full moon (Pink Moon)
Serene morning at the Rio Frio after a disrupted night

If you have ever slept in a tent in a busy campground, you know that sounds get amplified at nighttime. Especially when they come from the neighboring site. It just so happened that our neighbors, a couple, who seemed to be enjoying their campfire when we crawled into our tent, suddenly had a change of heart—about camping, about coming here together, about their relationship in general. And all these points they felt the need to discuss—repeatedly—for hours. These discussions were punctuated by the man leaving in his truck a number of times, only to return and to start from the beginning.

Alas, the most beautiful places in the world can be marred by humans’ often inexplicable behavior, and it only takes one or two. Are you someone who speaks up in similar situations? Or stays quiet? We didn’t want to start an argument, or worse, so we kept mum. When exhaustion seemed to trump argument and finally put them to sleep, we were also able to catch a few zzz’s.

Had we had more time, we would have loved to hike a few of the many local trails. As we did not, we explored only a little the following morning, admiring the river, patches of wildflowers, and a birding blind with many feathered visitors. When my ears picked out chickadee vocalizations, they did not sound like the chickadees back in Colorado. I knew right away that they had to belong to the hoped-for Carolina Chickadees (Poecile carolinensis)—a new bird for my life list! They look nearly identical to Black-capped Chickadees but only occur in the southeastern part of the US, whereas Black-capped Chickadees are far more widespread. Both species are best distinguished by voice where they overlap.

We had come across the gregarious and garrulous Purple Martins in various locations before but it was here that I was able to get my closest photo of these largest North American swallows in their man-made dwellings, fittingly called martin houses. The shiny blue males and muted brown females don’t mind living in a busy condominium. Their distribution includes most eastern states, where they have readily accepted martin houses, and a few western states, where most still nest in old woodpecker holes. Come autumn, they will migrate to South America to overwinter.

Carolina Chickadee (Poecile carolinensis)/Carolinameise
Purple Martin (Progne subis)/Purpurschwalbe

As it wasn’t autumn but spring, migration was directed northward and now we were following in the same direction. We were eyeing two State Parks in the Texas Panhandle for a possible visit, Caprock Canyons and Palo Duro Canyon. As the hours passed, I learned that the former didn’t have any open campsites and I couldn’t find any motels nearby. This made up our mind and we veered west, giving up on the idea of seeing the “Official Texas State Bison Herd” Caprock Canyons is known for. After 440 miles, we found a motel room along I-27 in Tulia south of Amarillo, about 40 miles from Palo Duro Canyon, our destination for the next day.

We arrived at the Palo Duro Visitor Center at 9:20 on Sunday morning. When we checked in, we inquired about available camping and were told to return in early afternoon which we did, after taking a hike. A few campsites had opened up because of cancellations and we were happy to snag one.

Palo Duro Canyon is advertised as the “Grand Canyon of Texas.” And while its colorful and striking rock formations, impressive vistas, and many miles of hiking trails are grand in their own way, it is neither on the physical nor on the soul-stirring scale of Arizona’s Grand Canyon (in my assessment). A cold front had brought clouds and lower temperatures to the area, enabling us to hike the famous CCC Trail before the 90-plus degree heat returned in the afternoon. Built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, the trail starts on the north canyon rim near the Visitor Center and takes the hiker to the bottom of the canyon in about 1.4 miles (and back up), opening different perspectives of the local geology.

In the afternoon we drove all the roads of the park and hiked a few short trails, trying not to overheat. Our assigned campsite was in a loop mostly occupied by RVs, but the sites were spacious and much better maintained than the tent-only sites and also included a bath house with running water. The night was  very windy, bringing another cold front which aided our plans for the next morning: to hike to the park’s iconic Lighthouse Rock, a 5.5-mile round-trip. The terrain was mostly flat with only a short ascent in the last half-mile. Walking on the valley floor, surrounded by geologic formations of varying shapes and shades, with an assortment of wildflowers lining the path and the occasional bird call and sighting, was thoroughly enjoyable and an exclamation mark to our Texas sojourn.

Palo Duro Canyon SP
View from the rim at Palo Duro Canyon SP
Hoodoo at Palo Duro Canyon SP
Lighthouse Trail at Palo Duro Canyon SP
The iconic Lighthouse Rock atPalo Duro Canyon SP

By evening, we were back in New Mexico for another exclamation point, our last night on the road in our tent, at the same campground and even campsite at Clayton Lake State Park (of dinosaur fame) that had accommodated us two-plus weeks prior. The same Great Horned Owl that had greeted nightfall then did so again this time, but the cottonwood trees along the lakeshore had covered themselves in green gauze and a Bald Eagle pair had started to sit on their nest and, presumably, on eggs. Unlike the previous stay here, we did not have to contend with wind at night or in the morning, taking our time to have breakfast, take down the tent, walk one of the trails through the forest leading to the lake’s inlet.

Early dawn at Clayton Lake SP, New Mexico
Early dawn at Clayton Lake SP, New Mexico

Bald Eagle on a nest at Clayton Lake SP, New Mexico

We reentered Colorado on top of Raton Pass and arrived back in Colorado Springs in the afternoon, having been gone for 3 weeks and traveled about 3,100 miles. This was our first road trip in our hybrid car and we were pleased that it gave us no trouble, and an average fuel consumption of 40 miles per gallon, before depositing us safely back where we started, but with manifold new memories in our hearts.

Back in Colorado

Thank you if you are still reading. This is part 9 of a series of posts about our road trip to Texas and concludes the actual trip review. I am, however, preparing a few more posts revolving around specific aspects of our travels.

For part 1, click here, for part 2, click here, for part 3, click here, for part 4, click here, for part 5, click here, for part 6, click here, for part 7, click here,for part 8, click here. I have also added “Texas” to the menu bar on top, where all my Texas posts are filed.

61 thoughts on “On the Road–Part 9”

  4. I, too, would have kept mum. But I would have been cursing them under my breath. They were so inconsiderate.

    Fun to see a different kind of chickadee. The black capped is the Maine state bird, and we have many of them in our backyard.

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

    • Thank you, Laurie. It seems so wrong that one or two persons can ruin things for the rest of us, be it on the campground or on the world stage. 😦

      I love chickadees. How nice that the Black-capped Chickadees is Maine’s state bird. They are also common here, along with Mountain Chickadees. They always seem in a good mood and spread cheer all around them.

      Liked by 1 person

      Reply

  5. You’ve packed a lot into one post, all the way from the Rio Grande River to your home back in Colorado. Sorry you didn’t make it to Caprock Canyons, which has not only bison but also colonies of prairie dogs.

    I’ve never understood why some people go out into nature and then make a lot of noise. I first noticed it at beaches, where it’s not unusual to hear a stereo blasting loud enough to be heard a hundred yards away.

    What kind of hybrid car did you get, and what feature(s) led you to pick it over other hybrids?

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

    • Thank you, Steve.

      I thought about splitting this post up into two, but I get the sense that some of our fellow bloggers are losing interest, based on visits and likes.

      Not being able to visit Caprocks Canyon was sad, bison and prairie dogs would have been fun to see. So much to do, so little time!

      I feel the same way about noisy people out in nature who spoil the experience for everybody else. Some folks are completely self-centered and seem oblivious to the experiences of their fellow human beings.

      Our hybrid is a Toyota RAV4 plug-in. We picked it over other hybrids because of a special sale in the spring of 2024. We like the fact that its battery has a 60-mile range which allows us to drive electric-only in town. When the setting is on hybrid for longer distances, the car decides whether to run on electricity or fuel, depending on one’s driving. At times, we get a 70 mpg equivalent. I love the fact that I can see the battery charge when I take my foot off the pedal or step on the brake. It makes me drive more conservatively in an attempt to save fuel (much to the chagrin of the many aggressive drivers out there).

      Like

      Reply

  6. Your 3000 mile road trip contains many wonderful experiences only occasionally marred by frightening winds threatening to blow over your tent or like on this last episode by noisy inconsiderate fellow campers. You mentioned that you could have swum across the Rio Grande. Would the water be warm enough in April? Great photos of a great trip, Tanja!

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

    • Thank you, Peter. Luckily, what we remember most after a while are all the positive moments, rather than the few negative ones.

      The water in the river didn’t seem very cold but this was after Falcon Dam and Reservoir, where the water had been dammed and stored. I imagine that the temperature fluctuates significantly, based on location. It’s definitely very cold at the origin in Colorado’s mountain, where it was started out as snow.

      Liked by 1 person

      Reply

  7. Mrs. Tanja-

    Thank you so much for sharing all of the pictures and descriptions!

    Laredo is actually the place I was born, so seeing pictures of the welcome center was quite enjoyable to me. My parents lived there for several years.

    The Texas Hill Country is truly a treat! It is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Texas. Many people who live near me travel often to this area for weekend trips or for a fast vacation since it is not very far! I think it is such a pretty area!

    Thank you for allowing me to feel as if I were a part of your trip through all of the details you provided! It sounds like you had an amazing trek. I have thoroughly enjoyed reading all of your related posts.

    Blessings,

    ~Gavin

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

    • Thank you, Gavin. I appreciate you following our travels and experiences.

      We did talk about the fact that your family started out in Laredo as we were driving through the area.

      The Hill Country was definitely beautiful. It doesn’t seem very close to the Houston area in my mind and I’m surprised that people would travel that far for a weekend. But I can relate to the fact that people want to escape from the big city, especially at the height of summer when floating the Rio Frio would help one to cool off.

      I hope you are enjoying your summer.

      Best,

      Tanja

      Liked by 1 person

      Reply

  8. What a fabulous trip. Thank you for sharing it with us across your nine (so far!) posts. I’m jealous of what you saw, but not of the camping, which is not my thing at all. And like you, I would stayed quiet while the couple next door were having their disagreement – as a Brit, “grin and bear it” is what I do best!

    Glad you were pleased with the fuel consumption achieved by your hybrid – we also drive them, and find them remarkably fuel efficient.

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

    • Thank you, Mr. P.

      You have mentioned your aversion to camping before. I just love being outdoors, seeing the sun and moon rise and set, hearing the birds and coyotes sing, feeling the fresh air. Of course, there are many times when heat or cold or mosquitoes (or inconsiderate neighbors) put a dent in that love, but mostly the positives outweigh the negatives for us.

      We would have preferred an all-electric vehicle, but the distances in the West are so vast and the availability of charging stations leaves much to be desired, so a hybrid was a compromise. We have a plug-in hybrid and for shorter distances, the 60-mile charge on the battery allows us to drive it in electric mode only. In hybrid mode fuel consumption is much reduced. Like you, we are very happy with the car.

      Liked by 1 person

      Reply

      • I chuckled when I read the “M-word” in your comment. Mosquitoes, the bane of Mrs P’s life. They love her and swarm around her in huge clouds, leaving me in splendid isolation. This helps explain Mrs P’s instinctive hostility to camping, which is even greater than mine!

        Liked by 1 person

      • I don’t know anybody who likes mosquitoes. Knowing how important they are for the birds and bats is little comfort when they descend upon us in clouds . . .
        You are, however, fortunate, to be married to a mosquito magnet and get away relatively unmolested. Things are similar for us, it’s usually I who has far more bites than my husband, so I can relate to Mrs. P’s suffering! 😦

        Liked by 1 person

  11. Hello dear Tanja,
    Still reading, and enjoying every moment😊 Can’t thank you enough for generously sharing your incredible experience. I have a feeling I may never have the opportunity to visit these locations, but thanks to you, I felt I could enjoy some of this journey.
    I can imagine how you must have also felt very happy to be back home – Colorado has such stunning beauty. Hope all is well with you and your husband.

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

  12. A beautiful travel story! 🚙🌄 Full of love for nature, birds 🐤, and peaceful river moments 🌊. Personal touches—like a restless campground night ⛺ or spotting a rare bird 🐧—add warmth. Borders fade between nations, people, and nature 🌍. The ending in Colorado feels like a grateful full circle 💫. A journey of land and soul ❤️🛤️.

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

  13. Jetzt mußte ich erstmal noch Part 8 lesen und die wunderschönen Vogelbilder betrachten, Ihr habt ja wirklich die allerschönsten Plätze in Texas gefunden. Ich würde so gerne auch nochmal, diesmal auf euren Spuren dort unterwegs sein. Schaunmermal. Der Jay ist ja ein Prachtexemplar. Superschön. Es ist insgesamt eine traumhafte Reisegeschichte. Den Palo Duro Canyon haben wir auch gesehen, aber wegen der Hitze den Marsch zum Leuchtturmfelsen nicht unternommen. SChöne Bilder zeigst du. Wir haben stattdessen die Birdwatchingstation länger besucht, dort war es schattig und nicht so heiß. Deine Bilder und Berichte sind für mich ein Paradies. Liebe Grüße
    Maren

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

    • Vielen Dank, liebe Maren. Es freut mich, daß meine Beiträge Dir gefallen und Deine Erinnerungen erwecken.

      Wir hatten Glück mit den Temperaturen im Palo Duro Canyon und haben unsere Wanderungen dort genossen. Die Birdwatchingstation war auch interessant. Anscheinend haben auch dort die Frühlingsstürme Schaden angerichtet, denn es gab einige Schilder, die darauf hinwiesen. Trotz Schäden war dort noch immer viel los.

      Liebe Grüße zurück,

      Tanja

      Liked by 1 person

      Reply

  14. Quite the adventure you were on Tanja. Photos and memories for a lifetime. And weeks and weeks of sorting photos now that you are home again.

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

  15. Cool, some places I have not been in Texas yet – I’ve added them to my visit list for our future explorations. Keep in mind the next time you are at that spot in Salineno that anybody in boats are spotters – that water is contaminated and not “fished”. They were cruising up and down pretty regularly when we were there earlier in the year – smile and wave boys, smile and wave. You’ll remember this view – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rd1vkDBW8WA Oh, and you probably saw the watch balloons at the dam near Falcon State Park – you were being watched whether you knew it or not ha. By the way, how was the water at Falcon – with all that rain was wondering if there was any water by their boat docks – there was nothing but a 40 or so foot drop from their dock and water only at a significant distance when we were there.

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

    • Thank you for your comment, Brian. And thanks for the link to the video. The view was definitely familiar.
      We didn’t see any person or boat at the river, nor any balloons at Falcon State Park that we can remember. The only border patrol we saw was at Bentsen-Rio Grande SP and near the Hidalgo Pump House.
      The water level of Falcon Reservoir was still very low and the boat ramp was far away from the water. Some people drove down to the water’s edge but the road was very rough and we didn’t want to risk it.

      Liked by 1 person

      Reply

      • You were everywhere down there. Did you do the drive through the nearby neighborhood of the pumphouse to see the monk parakeet colonies. Wouldn’t hang there for very long, but an wasy check if you need those. There is also an eclectic house/retaurant right actoss the street you probably saw.

        Liked by 1 person

      • The Monk Parakeets were the reason we went to the Hidalgo area (thanks to your mention of them). Their nests on the power poles were something else! Not sure if we saw the eclectic house/restaurant you mentioned but we might have seen it without registering the details.

        Incidentally, I saw another life bird at the pumphouse pond–a Clay-colored Thrush! 🙂

        Like

  16. Wonderful Tanja. The scale of your national parks never fails to amaze me. As for the noisy couple next door, this also never fails to amaze me – the lack of social awareness.

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

    • Thank you, Michael. The National Park system is amazing. But it might come under attack. This administration seems hell-bent on destroying everything that is good about this country. 😢
      As far as the couple’s social awareness, I’m not sure if they lacked it or if they didn’t care. In my mind, it’s another sign that our societies are devolving.

      Liked by 1 person

      Reply

      • Purple Martins are the largest of swallow species, they have a notched or slightly forked tail, especially noticeable in flight, whereas Barn Swallows have a long, deeply forked tail. The Purple Martin’s scientific name is Progne subis. Progne is derived from the Greek myth of Prokne, who was transformed into a swallow. Subis is a Latin word used by Pliny to describe a bird that breaks eagle eggs (although not true).

        Liked by 1 person

      • The martins’ larger size in comparison with swallows’ was very obvious, which helped identify them in mid-air.
        It’s often fascinating to learn how a bird ended up with its name. Many have been, or are in the process of, getting renamed. Nobody today would name a bird based on Greek myths.

        Liked by 1 person

  18. Garner State Park, a barely remembered childhood memory! I’ve never been to Palo Duro Canyon, shame on me!

    In the next few weeks, the Purple Martins will begin their migration southward. Here in Austin, the various colonies nearby choose a site, typically somewhere off of I35, to gather each evening. Travis Audubon hosts ‘Purple Martin Parties’ to observe the hundred of thousands of birds to show up and swirl themselves into trees for the evenings. This is the prelude to their migrations, which the complete as individuals or small groups. It’s something to behold. Just wear a hat or bring an umbrella. 🙂 Here’s an informative video, a little long, but if you have the time and interest: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYzIPcD4gWw

    I love the NM photos, we just got back from a visit; I like that state, it’s truly the ‘land of enchantment’!

    Thank you for taking us along on this trip, I’ve loved your stories and photos

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

    • Thank you, Tina. I’m glad you enjoyed my Texas posts.
      Thank you so much for letting me know about the migration of the Purple Martins. I had no idea! What an amazing experience! Wish I could witness it in person, but I doubt that I will ever be in Texas at the end of July. Too darn hot for me!

      Like

      Reply

  19. That hoodoo has me smiling because it looks like a creature that’s ready to pounce… 🙂 The ‘head’ makes me think of ‘Toothless’ in the ‘How to Train Your Dragon’ animations, hehe!

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

  20. I smiled at the photo taken from the rim of Palo Duro. I compared it to one of my photos from the place, and although it’s impossible to say, I’m tempted to think we were very nearly in the same spot when we took our photos. I’ve not yet visited Caprock, but it’s on my list. Even a Texan can find it hard to get to every neat spot in our state.

    Did you happen to see the dance pavilion at Garner State Park, or the famous “changing tree”? The pavilion also was built by the CCC, and there’s nothing more fun than a summer dance there. The changing tree’s a huge cypress down by the river; long ago, ladies would change into their swim suits there — generations have taken their photos standing inside the large gap in the tree’s trunk.

    My favorite season for Garner is autumn, when the cypress trees turn rust, the skies are the most vibrant blue imaginable, and the temperature drops. I’m glad you were able to visit there.

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

    • Thank you, Linda. I imagine that Palo Duro Canyon has certain iconic views that have been captured by many visitors time and again.
      Yes to having seen the dance pavilion. The CCC building and the dance area happened to be located in our camping loop and we read about the dances that take place there in the summer.
      We missed the “changing tree,” however.
      It’s easy to imagine how beautiful Garner SP would be in autumn. I think many if not most places are.

      Liked by 1 person

      Reply

      • I thought you’d be interested in this video from today at Garner State Park. The Guadalupe, Medina, and Rio Frio are on a rampage; some of my favorite spots already have been seriously damaged or washed away, and we have our fingers crossed for places downstream, where the crest isn’t to arrive until tonight.

        Like

Leave a reply to Yeah, Another Blogger Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.